Monday, 15 June 2015

LC:M Day 4- LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN SS16

Image: Katie Eary
SEAN SUEN PRESENTED BY GQ CHINA
Inspired by what he saw along his travels, Suen blended eastern with western elements. His take on the European suit was reminiscent to Chinese robes, with traditional Chinese silks layering over loosening harsh lines and being draped in fine fabrics.

JIMMY CHOO
The designer took over the leisure centre to showcase the wardrobe for the man that likes a lot of action in his life. Jimmy Choo instantly teased with an Instagram video and pictures from within the locker room.

E. TAUTZ
The runway showed men with Greaser hair and a higher waist for a realistic take on 50s styling.

PAUL SMITH

The showroom treated guests to bike ramps, and a show. The collection included grid patterned summer wool (spun in a way to make the yarn crease free) in a variety of pastel lavender-grey, and dusty mustards and blues. Shoes and socks had citrus colouring.

TOM FORD
Tom Ford included impeccably cut suits, these were more sixties inspired than his previous collections. His liking of the sixties translated into wide black and white breton stripes, bright combinations, and lava lamp suit jackets.

XANDER ZHOU
The sixties are back with novelty arrows, oversized buttons, cartoon-like pockets, and statement making stripes. Optical Illusions metallic rectangles on clothing gave the appearance of metal chips, the metal rings were strapped and looked like handcuffs or badges, 60s faux turtlenecks were achieved by a colour blocked high collared jacket. Boudoir chic shirts were worn open to give the appearance of robes, bedtime items were introduced: like the use of velvet fabric, pyjama silhouettes, and then pyjama stripes. Robes trench coats, martial art uniforms, and pyjama two pieces were cinched in to look like robes. Chinese Heritage dragon prints on silk fabrics. Metallic heritage patterns shimmered through primary coloured backgrounds, incorporated into skinny ties, pockets, espadrilles, and androgynous strappy and tasselled tabards. That seventies show skinny ties made an appearance in this show, as did oversized collars placed on top of jackets. Pyjama stripes were worn with embellished pastel outerwear, and jumpsuit onesies resembled astronaut suits, complete with metallic chips.

CHRISTOPHER KANE
Kane continued to concentrate on his fascination with science- namely biology, and created a line-up of molecular patterns. Suture-like stitching overtook priced knitwear, and black and white marbling represented decay. The show veered into a brighter palette with bold prints, and bar–code stripes. His educational scientific collections are well documented, with this collection foreshadowing electronics for next season.

JOHN SMEDLEY

KATIE EARY
A fifties inspired collection dubbed "My little Peeny". The designs were pastel ombre, reminiscent of a kitsch era. Then penal print was introduced, with a pink tasselled scarf resembling the pink hair of the beloved toys-hinting at a My little Pony inspired collection, using satins and silk fabric to look like plastic. Then all mystery was removed, as a white t-shirt had graphic Pony print, then all over graphics of said Pony with superimposed genitalia.

BURBERRY PRORSUM
Lace was introduced to the men's collection, and made tougher by the density and choice of colours. Suit separates were shown in mustard yellow, maroon, and navy-greys. Their use of animal print continued, with a sheer look at giraffe print, and tiger for long 70s skinny scarves.

BOBBY ABLEY
The Super Duper Storm Trooper, and Princess Slayer collection.
Bobby Abley had a go at reimagining the future, and it looked a lot like Star Wars. Neoprene looks had a space theme to them, and high necks on hoodies resembled astronaut suits. Abley captured the retro-kitsch way of thinking with 'Chewy' fur, rose-gold glitter, and Darth Vader mask tabards.

TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION
"We the ignorant youth."
Inspired by South American tribesmen, the designs were triggered by Gaughan's silhouette added with tribal fabrics and layers.

TIGER OF SWEDEN

LATHBRIDGE BY PATRICK COX

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